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  Wonder how they work? Heres the skinny on fat reels . . .



By Ted Leeson
from Fly Rod & Reel March/April 1999


From a mechanical standpoint, a fly reel is not just a simple machine—it’s positively primitive. For the purposes of retrieving line, storing it and fighting fish, using a fly reel is like riding a unicycle in the Tour de France. But I think that’s one of the reasons we love reels—they are a material reminder of the self-imposed limitations at the heart of our sport that set it a little apart from other types of fishing. But within those limits, there’s nothing wrong with seeking functional efficiency, and there’s the rub: The very simplicity of a fly reel makes it difficult to improve upon. Drag systems aside (they are optional, not intrinsic), change comes slowly to flyreel design because there just isn’t that much to work with.

It’s surprising, then, that in 1995 both Jon Bauer and Ted Juracsik independently introduced (or more accurately, “reintroduced”) a design approach—the large-arbor reel—that offers a number of performance advantages over conventional reels. It’s a simple idea that applies straightforward geometry instead of complex mechanics. In fly-fishing of course, as in all human folly, there’s really nothing new under the sun. Large-arbor reels quite likely pre-date us all. Hardy, I’m told, used some version of the design in the early part of this century, and I wouldn’t be surprised to learn that other early reel makers tried it as well. A more recent, and certainly more revolutionary, version—the Swedish Loop reel—appeared in the mid 1980s. But only in very recent years has the design really caught on with manufacturers and anglers alike.

What, exactly, are we talking about?
The term “large-arbor reel” can be a little deceptive, as it often refers to two separate, but related, design approaches. Since they differ, particularly in their angling benefits, it’s worth taking a closer look at them both.

In its first and strictest sense, “large arbor” means just what it says: The arbor—the core of the spool to which the backing is attached—is larger in diameter than that of a conventional reel. Increasing the arbor size, with no other modifications to the spool, does one thing and one thing only—it reduces the overall spool capacity. Though this may not sound terribly useful, it can have advantages, and a number of reels—discussed below in the section, Convertibles—takes exactly this approach.

More often, however, the term “large arbor” is used in a second sense, as a kind of shorthand that refers to a group of coordinated design parameters—arbor diameter, outside spool diameter, spool width and overall reel weight—that, properly engineered and harmonized, offer some significant advantages.

In addition to increasing the arbor size, some reel makers also increase the outside spool diameter and so alter reel performance in a number of ways. First, increasing the diameter of the spool—and thus the length of line represented by one wrap around the circumference—restores some of the line capacity lost by using a large arbor. And in fact capacity is often further increased by widening the spool, thereby adding extra volume without further increasing spool diameter or decreasing the arbor diameter.

Second, a large-diameter spool helps reduce coiling due to line memory. Line pulls off the reel with fewer corkscrews, which improves casting and handling.

Third, retrieve rate is improved, as each turn of the reel handle picks up a greater amount of line. This efficiency is particularly noticeable when the reel is nearly empty. When you’re close to the bone of a conventional spool—say, one with a 3/4" arbor—a single turn of the reel handle picks up roughly 2 1/2" of line; a comparable reel with a large arbor—say 1 3/4"—will pick up 5 1/2" of line. Less, and less furious, cranking is required to take up slack—an obvious virtue with long-running species like bonefish, but a godsend as well to light-line anglers who, in the interests of balanced tackle, are often forced to use tiny reels with abysmal retrieve rates.

Fourth, the large spool circumference is also an advantage in the outgoing direction. As a running fish takes line, a large-diameter spool will spin at a lower rpm than will a small-diameter one. It’s easier to palm a reel and control a fish when the spool is turning more slowly. I also find large-diameter reels—with their bigger rims a little farther from the rod grip—generally more convenient for palming, and most large-arbor reels are manufactured with generous palming rims.

Last, as a rule a large-arbor reel will maintain more consistency in drag pressure as a fish takes more line. Where drag pressure is concerned, what you set is not always what you get. If you’ve ever stripped the backing off your reel, you’ve probably noticed that it’s far easier to pull line from a full spool than from one that’s nearly empty. Similarly, as a running fish takes line, the effective diameter of the spool (that is, the diameter measured across the remaining line) decreases, and the effective drag (the resistance the fish actually experiences) increases. It’s a matter of decreasing leverage and a corresponding increase in the force necessary to continue pulling line from the spool. The effects can be significant; run all the line off a 4" standard-arbor spool, and the increase in effective drag force can be 300 percent or more.

The key to maintaining drag consistency, then, is to make the change in effective diameter from a full spool to an empty one as small as possible. That is, you build a reel with a large arbor to make a relatively shallow spool that places the total volume of line and backing close to the perimeter of the spool.

One advantage, by the way, that large-arbor reels do not offer—though the idea gets repeated in conversation and print—is lower start-up inertia. As most of us know, it takes more force to start a reel spool turning that it does to keep it turning. The difference between the two levels of force is “start-up inertia,” and it cannot be reliably correlated with spool diameter.

Large-arbor/large-spool reels have a few drawbacks. They are, obviously, somewhat bigger and bulkier (though not necessarily heavier) than conventional reels. They also tend to be more expensive. Large-arbor spools can require a significant amount of extra machining, which drives up the cost. Third, because large-arbor spools are often wider and shallower, it’s easier to bunch up line on the spool during the retrieve and jam it against the frame. You must use a finger on your rod hand to traverse the line from side to side across the spool face to distribute it evenly. Mark Farris, of Waterworks, suggests you can achieve the same effect by rotating the wrist of your rod hand from side to side as you retrieve, which causes the line to lie uniformly across the spool.

From a functional/mechanical standpoint (ignoring matters of tradition, aesthetics and cost—which admittedly is ignoring a lot), large-arbor reels with large-diameter spools are, I think, pretty much superior to conventional types. Virtually all the reel makers I spoke with agreed with this assessment. Yet in making this kind of comparison, it’s worth bearing in mind that...

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