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FLY TYING TECHNIQUES
Adapted from the FFF booklet
Introduction to Fly
Tying (by Al Beatty
& Bob Lay)
There are several basic techniques that a fly tier use
on almost every fly. Skill with these commonly used
techniques is an important aspect of successful fly
tying.
THE BASE WRAP: The base wrap is one of
most important parts of a fly. Because the base wrap is
the foundation of your fly, it can be compared to the
foundation on your home; it must be strong, well placed,
and properly constructed. So how is the base wrap
applied to the hook shank?
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(Note: The following instructions are for right handed fly tiers.) |
•Start by holding the bobbin in your right hand with
about five inches of thread extending from the tube of
the bobbin.
•Secure the end of the thread with the thumb and fore
finger of your left hand.
•With the thread held by your left hand and the bobbin
in your right hand, place the thread over the hook
shank. It is very important to have the thread in your
lert hand over the hook shank so it is nearest you and
the bobbin in your right hand is on the far side of the
hook from you.
•By keeping both hands fairly close together, apply
tension to the thread so it forms an up-side down V. The
point of the V should be at the starting point on the
hook shank. Moving the bobbin AND your right hand around
the hook shank in a clockwise direction will form wraps
around the hook shank. The wraps should be tight enough
to keep from slipping around on the hook but not so
tight that you break the thread when placing them.
•The base wrap is formed by first placing two turns of
thread behind the V, followed by placing two turns of
thread in front of the V. Then wrap back over the
original two turns and continue back along the hook
shank to the start of the bend.
•Next trim off the excess piece of thread you have been
holding with your left hand. Finish by wrapping back to
your starting point and the base wrap is complete. You
will note that the base wrap consists of a double layer
of thread from the starting point, down the hook shank
to the bend, and back to the starting point.
THREAD TORQUE: When a thread under tension is wrapped
around the hook, it has a tendency to pull other
materials around the hook with it during the actual
wrapping process. . This tendency is called thread torque.Thread torque will cause materials placed on the
top of a hook to roll to the side of the hook away from
the fly tier. In some situations the material will even
end up under the hook. There are two methods of dealing
with thread torque and/or using it to your advantage:
(1) the material roll and (2) the finger-thumb tuck. The
material roll is usually used with stiffer materials
like moose hair or hackle fibers and the finger-thumb
tuck is used on softer materials like chenille or yarn.
THE MATERIAL ROLL: We use this tendency of the thread to
roll during the wrapping process to our advantage. It is
simple! If you want the material to end up on top of the
hook, then start it on the side of the hook nearest you.
Thread torque will roll the material up on top. If you
want the material to end up on the bottom, then start it
on the side away from you. It will roll under the hook
during the wrapping process. It will take a few tries to
get used to how the thread torque actually rolls the
material. After awhile, however, you will realize how
easy it is to use this problem to your advantage.
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FINGER-THUMB TUCK: This technique is employed when
thread torque still pushes the material out of the way
when the tier is trying to use the material roll. In
this situation, place the material on the hook shank
exactly where it should end up. Hold it in place between
the finger and the thumb of the left hand. |
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(Note: It's important that the material you're tying on
the hook is tight against the hook shank and that the
material AND the hook shank itself both be held between
the left finger and thumb.)
•Now force the tying thread up between the finger and
thumb of the left hand. This is accomplished by moving
the bobbin (located in the right hand) above the left
hand and pulling the thread between the finger and thumb
of the left hand.
•From this position above the left hand, move the right
hand and bobbin straight down, AROUND, and BEHIND the
hook shank, leaving a thread loop extending from your
finger and thumb.
•With the right hand positioned below the hook, pull on
the loop of thread that is between the finger and thumb
of the left hand until it slips out from between them.
When it slips out, it will capture the material tight
against the hook shank.
•Keep the left finger and thumb positioned in the same
place on the hook shank and repeat the process two more
times. The extra two tucks will tightly bind the
material in place.
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DUBBING: In the fly tying world the word "dubbing" is
used in two ways; to describe a product and also to
describe a tying technique. Dubbing as a product is
formed by trimming the fur from the hide of an animal
such as a muskrat or a rabbit. This trimmed fur is then
processed (sometimes in a blender) to fluff it and
intermix the fibers. A fly tier can make their own
dubbing or purchase it ready for use. In today's market
synthetic as well as natural dubbings are available.
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Dubbing as a technique is what we want to cover in this
section. Using this technique, the fly tier forms a
small piece of yarn around the tying thread. The process
starts with the tying thread attached to the hook.
•Hold the bobbin with one hand with about four inches of
exposed thread between the hook and the bobbin.
•With the thumb and fore finger of the other hand pick
small pieces of fur from a package of dubbing.
•Place the fur on the exposed thread and twist in ONE
DIRECTION ONLY!
•Repeat the process until you have enough fur twisted
around the thread to form a short piece of yarn ON THE
EXPOSED FLY TYING THREAD; at this point the thread is
referred to as "dubbed thread."
•Wrap the dubbed thread around the hook shank to form
the body of the fly.
Many fly tiers use a product called dubbing wax to aid
getting the fur or dubbing to stick to the thread. It
does make dubbing easier.
THE HALF-HITCH: The half hitch is one of two methods
used to finish the fly. It is really nothing more than a
over-hand loop that is placed over the eye of the hook
and around the hook shank. When the excess thread is
pulled out of the loop, it tightens around the hook
shank and keeps the thread from unwrapping. Three or
four of these applied to the hook is one way of tying
off the fly.
It is applied like this:
•With the thread attached to the hook, hold the bobbin
in your left hand with about four inches of thread
between the hook and your bobbin.
•Hold the forefinger and the middle finger of your right
hand apart about an inch and, with the back of your hand
facing you, lay them across the thread.
•Rotate the fingers toward you 180 degrees forming a
loop with the thread wrapped around the fingers.
•The thread from the bobbin crosses over the thread from
the hook forming an X between your fingers.
•Slip this loop over the eye of the hook and gradually
remove the slack from the thread. As the thread is
tightened remove your finger and allow the thread to
secure around the hook shank.
(Note: If these instructions don't work for you, ask
your local supplier for a "Half-hitch tool". It is very
easy to use.)
THE WHIP FINISH: The whip finish is really just an
extension of the half hitch and can be done with or
without a whip finishing tool as follows. First apply a
half hitch but DO NOT pull the slack out of the thread.
While keeping your fingers spread with the thread around
them, rotate the piece of thread that is attached
directly to the hook around the hook shank in a
clock-wise direction. Two or three rotations are all
that is required. Now pull the slack out of the thread
removing your fingers as you go just like you did for
the half hitch or use your scissor's tip to steer the
loop into place while you pull the slack out of the
thread. The illustrations should help you understand
this process.
GAGING HACKLE SIZE: Hackle size is determined by the
length of the individual fibers in the usable portion of
a feather. You are probably wondering how to measure the
fibers and also, what part of the feather is the usable
part. We will explain!
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Determining the length of the individual fibers is
fairly easy. Just fan the fibers by forming an arc in
the feather stem. Then gage the length of the fiber by
measuring from the stem to the end of the fiber. There
are special tools on the market today to help with this
measurement or you can use the hook to make your
comparison.
A hackle feather that is the right size for a particular
hook has fibers whose length are one and one-half times
the width of the gape of the hook. To use the hook to
gage your hackle simply bend the stem of the feather
around the bottom of the hook shank
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Now that you know how to determine hackle size, next you need to determine what part of the feather you use to tie the fly. In looking at a feather you'll note a darker band along the stem. This darker band is made up of soft or webbed fibers. The webby portion is wide near the base of the feather and very narrow or non existent at the tip. The useable part of the feather should have a minimum amount web. As a general rule of thumb you can start to use the feather where the web is no more than one-third of the hackle fiber length and the web free part is two thirds of the length of the fiber. |
GETTING STARTED: The techniques we have just described
should get you started. As you learn more about the art
of fly tying you'll develop techniques of your own or
learn them from another fly tier. Don't be afraid to try
something new - experiment! The worst thing that could
happen is that you would have to use a razor blade to
remove your mistake from the hook and start over. Or
better yet! Save some of your first mistakes and refer
to them from time to time. We're certain you'll see a
definite improvement as you gain more experience. Now
let's start tying flies!
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