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Using VENIARDS Fly Tying DYE
By Jim Smith
Dyeing your own feathers and fur is often the only way
you have to get the exact colour you want for that
special pattern or even that old traditional that you
want to tie. If you use a well proven dye like Veniards
fly tiers dye it is not difficult or messy and can
develop into an interesting pastime for when you are not
at the fly tiers bench.
The old traditional methods while effective were very
complicated. If you have an interest in trying the old
methods then can I suggest as a starter you get hold of
a copy of Irish Trout and Salmon Flies by E J Malone
which has just been republished in paperback. Not only
does the book contain a fabulous array of traditional
fly patterns but has a good chapter on dying by the old
methods. Using modern dyes like Veniards you will find
the process simple and economical.
Veniards Dyes are usually available around the world
from the wide range of fly shops that sell veniards fly
tying products. There is a full range of colours, around
forty, which have been designed to meet the needs of
both traditional and innovative fly tiers. The dyes are
very strong so are very economical to use. Veniards sell
them in 15 gm tubes and a tube will last the average
tier years.
The equipment you will need is very simple and can be
"stolen" from the kitchen. Veniards recommend that two
aluminium saucepans are used, a small one which can fit
inside one slightly larger. The smaller one is
perforated on the bottom and sides so it becomes like a
colander. An alternative is a cooks wire mesh sieve or a
wire mesh potato chip (french fry) basket. The colander
holds the material to be dyed and stands inside the
larger saucepan of dye holding the material. It will
hold a good amount of small feathers or larger feathers
cut in pieces. The idea in using the colander or
perforated saucepan is that it allows easy inspection of
material which can be lifted out of the bath inspected
and then resubmerged. It also helps keep you clean as
contact with the dye bath is kept to a minimum but you
should wear rubber kitchen gloves anyway. Veniards
recommended colander method is probably best if you are
new to dyeing.
Most of my dyeing is of loose fur and I use a different
method. I have a shallow aluminium pan (it's actually
part of an old egg poacher!) which holds the dye and I
put the material loose in the pan. To separate material
from the dye bath when it's dyed pour the dye and loose
fur through a fine mesh cook's sieve. Alternatively you
can put material like loose fur in a length of nylon
stocking tied up at each end. The dye easily works
through the stocking. I find the large shallow pan
easier to dye capes (necks) and saddles and get a nice
even dying of loose furs like seal. It is more difficult
to add extra dye if the strength is wrong though.
There is no doubt the key to successful results is the
proper treatment of the material before dyeing. This
simply means ensuring that the material is clean and
free of grease. Veniards recommend using a solution of
soap powder or any good detergent to soak the material
for a few minutes which should then be rinsed well.
Waterfowl feathers will need a longer soaking to help
remove the natural grease that they are gifted with. The
usual process is quite simple. Using the larger
saucepan, prepare a solution of soap powder or any good
detergent. Place the feathers to be dyed in the smaller
perforated saucepan (colander) and soak for a few
minutes. (Waterfowl feathers must be soaked considerably
longer to allow penetration of the natural oil coating).
My preferred way of preparing loose seal fur dubbing,
capes and saddles is to use a cheap supermarket brand
shampoo with a conditioner in it and work it well into
the material. Yes the conditioner does make a
difference!
Once the feathers or fur have been washed in your choice
of soap, detergent or shampoo a thorough rinsing needs
to take place. I do this by placing the material in the
wire sieve or colander and rinsing thoroughly under the
tap.
Veniards also market a special super strength detergent
called venpol for extra dirty or greasy materials. I
normally do not need to use Venpol. But if you are dying
extra dirty greasy materials like Buck tails you will
find it useful. It is very concentrated so the amount
you need to use is quite small. Veniards recommend 1
part in 160. Half a fluid once of venpol is enough for 4
pints of water. Hackles only require a soaking of a few
minutes but buck tails may benefit from a few hours or
an overnight soak.
Once you have prepared your material you can move on to
the dying process which is very easy. Put water in your
pan to a little above the half full mark and gently heat
on the stove. Add dye to the water which should be
usually at the rate of a quarter of a teaspoon of dye to
2 pints of water for ordinary feathers and furs and
double the amount of dye for waterfowl feathers. Allow
the dye solution to come to the boil stirring the
mixture so all the dye is dissolved. To fix the colour
you must add vinegar, one tablespoon full per quarter
teaspoon of dye, to the solution. If you are dying dark
colours you will find you need a stronger solution of
dye and pro rata more vinegar. Black is a very difficult
colour, I use a teaspoon of dye per 2 pints of water.
Put your feathers in the dye bath and bring the solution
back to the boil. Simmer the materials gently keeping
the material moving all the time. You must allow time
for the colour to develop. The dyes are all a mixture of
three colours which do not fix and penetrate at the same
rate so if you remove the material too early you will
not get the shade you want. Feathers, when they are wet,
look darker than they will be dry, so bear that in mind
when examining them. Most shades develop in 3 or 4
minutes.
If you are using a "colander" then inspection is made
simple. You lift out the colander and the dye runs
through the holes back into the pan leaving the material
for inspection in the bottom. Remember when you are
looking at your material that it will dry to a lighter
shade. If you are not achieving the correct shade then
it is a simple matter to add more dye and vinegar to the
dye bath if you are using a colander. Try holding a
feather up to the light to get a better idea of its
shade.
You will find that bright shades like red yellow and
green highlander are achieved very easily. The more
subtle colours can be spoiled by using too much dye, so
for delicate olives and shades of dun start with a
little dye and add more if needed. You will quickly
learn, believe me, nothing about dying with Veniards dye
is difficult.
As mentioned above black needs special attention. I use
nearly a full teaspoon of dye and leave the dye bath
cooking for as long as possible at the simmer. Once I
have given the material a good simmering I do not remove
the material from the bath but leave it overnight to go
cold before straining the dye off in the morning. This
usually results in a nice rich glossy black.
When you have reached the shade you want, remove the
colander from the dye bath and put under the cold tap to
rinse. Keep rinsing until the water runs clear. Blot the
material to remove surplus moisture, then place on paper
till air dried.
One trick advocated by Veniards is to put partially
dried hackles in a cardboard lid which is then held over
a gas ring and shaken gently until dry. A fierce heat
can be used if the material is kept on the move. I like
to use my wife's hairdryer!
You will find there is an infinite range of shades
available to you by varying the strength of dyes and by
experimenting with mixing dyes. Remember that you cannot
dye something lighter you can only dye things darker. So
a Red hackle from say a Rhode Island red chicken will
dye Black Claret and Purple but for the shades of dun
and olive you need a white hackle.
Key Points to Remember
1. Always remove all traces of detergent from material
by rinsing thoroughly.
2. Keep feathers on the move when the dye bath is at
boiling point or just under.
3. Do not add more dye to a bath when there is material
in it. Use the colander to lift the material out first.
4. Its better to start with a weaker dye bath and add
dye to it if needed.
5. Make sure that material is rinsed properly after it
is dyed.
6. Do not dry with fierce heat as it will "kill" the
material.
7. You cannot dye a dark material light. Start with
white material for subtle and bright colours. ~ Jim
Smith
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