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Frequently Asked Questions
1."I'm just getting into fly-fishing. Can I
buy one outfit that will work for everything?"
Sure! If your interests are only in fly fishing for
trout in lakes, a 5 or 6 wt. rod with a floating line
will do nicely. An additional line, a sink-tip to get
wet flies down if the trout aren't rising is very
appropriate.
Want to fish large saltwater fish off the beaches too?
Sorry, the "trout" outfit won't do the job. The reason
here is the size and weight of the flies used to fish
saltwater. Bigger flies require a heavier fly line to
cast the fly. Small flies can "theoretically" be cast
with a bigger rod, say an 8 or 9 weight; but not big
flies with a small rod. Yes, of course it is more work
to cast a bigger rod, but we are talking real economy
here.
Will you enjoy it? Those of us who have fished a number
of years all fished with rods that were considerably
heavier and more physically demanding than today's rods.
It's a matter of frame of reference.
2."Do I have to spend $500 ($400-$600) for a
fly rod?"
No! There are tons on fly rods on the market in the $85
- $200 range. We have had students who bought rods in
the "entry level" price range who were very happy. Down
the line, if they stick with fly fishing, they will
probably buy other rods; and keep their first rod as a
spare. New rods for specific uses - like salmon fishing,
or small delicate rods for small streams.
3."We hike and camp a lot; is a pack rod as
good as a 2-piece rod?"
Absolutely! In many cases the pack rod is even better
than it's 2-piece counterpart. Some manufacturers say
they have more control over the action of the rod since
each piece's taper can be specifically designed. Some
years ago that wasn't the case. Pack rods were either
too stiff where the pieces joined, or the whole rod was
of poor quality. Times indeed have changed.
4."Reels are really expensive! Why should I
spend $300 for a reel?"
You don't have to. Reels are basically line holders.
Most freshwater stream and lake fishing doesn't require
big reels, nor sophisticated drag systems. As a
beginner, you have to make some decisions. What do you
want to fish for? Local water? Small fish, like trout
and bass? If the answer on those questions is
affirmative, an inexpensive click-and-pawl reel is just
dandy.
Salt water and salmon? Or more exotic fish in far away
places? Like bonefish in the Bahamas or Christmas
Island? Now we're talking bigger reels. One that will
take 200 or 250 yards of backing and a good drag system.
Expensive, probably. Although there are a couple of new
reels on the market under $300 with non-slip clutch
systems.
An important consideration in buying a reel for fishing
saltwater is the reel must be salt-water-proof. Even if
you rinse your reel religiously after every use, salt
crystal will get where they aren't supposed to be and
the reel will seize up. Always use a reel made for
saltwater use on the salt. No exceptions, and rinse it
well after each use.
5. "I went down to the store and they had so
many different kinds of fly lines I didn't know what to
get. Help!"
I tend to be overly critical of the fly line market.
Having come west on the wagon train, I do remember when
there was one fly line. It was silk, and had to be
tended with care.
Then Scientific Anglers invented the floating lines we
know now. But it was either a level, or tapered line.
You only had a couple of choices. Now every notable in
the fly fishing world has a "special" fly line. One for
steelhead, a special sinking tip for steelhead, a
special fast-sinking tip for steelhead, and an ultra
line for steelhead ... all in a rainbow of colors.
Don't feel badly if you're confused. Line proliferation
confuses everyone. Starting out, for moderate casts to
trout, a weight forward line for dry fly presentation is
all you need. If you also want to slog nymphs it will do
that as well. One of the choice guides on Montana's
Bitterroot river uses a double taper, floating line, two
nymphs and a strike indicator. Yuck. But it works for
him!
6."So if I need two lines, I need two
reels?"
If you bought an inexpensive reel, that's not a bad
idea. A better idea is to buy a reel that has a spare
spool - sometimes called a cassette. This is just an
insert that snaps (or pops) in and out of the reel body,
allowing for quick change of lines. Why?
You're fishing dry flies in a morning hatch, the sun is
shining. You can see and hear the slurps of rising
trout. Eventually the hatch quits. The fish didn't
leave, they are eating other stuff. Most likely stuff on
the bottom, like nymphs. Now you need to get to the
bottom. Having a spare spool with perhaps a sink tip,
(which is the first 10 to 20 feet of the line that
sinks,) will put your wet fly or nymph where the fish
are eating now.
7. "My friend says to put a 7 wt. line on my
6 wt. rod, will that make the rod load better?"
Rods are meticulously designed to cast the weight of the
line designated on the rod itself. Usually there is a
line (or couple of lines) of print on the rod, near the
grip. It will read with the length of rod first, - such
as 9'6"- then the line it takes - for 6 wt.line. Great
efforts are made by rod manufacturers to produce fine
casting tools. Why should an additional weight line be
better?
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