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Simple Stonefly Nymphs
By A.K. BEST
There is a great temptation to tie stonefly nymphs
that are anatomically correct, right down to elbows and eyeballs. This
is simply because the naturals are so big compared to most mayfly and
caddis nymphs we normally tie. But when you fish your stonefly nymphs
where and how you really should, you'll lose a lot of them. I decided
years ago to apply the KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid) principle to all
my stoneflies, and can happily report that they work just as well as
those works of art I used to tie, and I don't feel like shooting myself
when I lose them in the rocks.
Following is the recipe I use for all my large black stonefly nymphs:
Hook: Mustad 79580 or equivalent, #2 to #8
Thread: Black Monocord
Tail: Pair of black goose biots
Body: Heavy black wool yarn
Rib: Black Swannundaze
Wing Pad: Black goose wing segment
Legs: Black hen back feather
Thorax: Dirty orange dubbing
Antennae: None
Before you begin, go to a knitting shop and buy a skein of the blackest
heavy sweater yarn you can find. The best is about 1/4" in diameter
and very fuzzy.
To tie:
1) Cover the hook shank with tying thread and lash a piece of .035"
lead wire substitute to each side of the hook. Save space (abut a hook
gap) in front of the bend and behind the eye. Coat with head cement.

2) Pinch off a small amount of wool yarn for a dubbing ball to separate
the biot tails and dub it onto the thread.
3) Tie in a biot on each side of the dubbing ball, length equal to hook
gap.
4) Twist the tapered end of the wool yarn and tie it in immediately
in front of the dubbing ball, then tie in the ribbing.
5) Wrap the black yarn forward to create the body, and tie it off about
1/3 of the shank length behind the hook eye; trim excess.
6) Spiral-wrap the ribbing forward and tie off on top of the yarn abdomen;
trim excess.
7) For the wing pad, tie in black goose segment (width of the hook gap)
on top of the shoulder of the abdomen.
8) Tie in, at the tip, the black hen back feather, dull side up. The
hackle fibers should be a little longer than the hook gap.
9) Make a dubbing loop, and spin a very fuzzy rope for the thorax; wrap
the thorax about twice the diameter of the abdomen.
10) Fold the hen back feather forward, tie down and clip off butt.
11) Fold black goose forward, tie down and trim.
12) Whip-finish and apply a generous coating of cement to head and wing
pad.
No elbows, no eyeballs, no antennae, no big deal when you lose one,
but the trout really like them.
That’s it.—A.K.
Check out A.K.’s fly-tying videos, based on his popular books (unless
noted, all times are 60 minutes; prices $19.95): Tying Dry Flies
(120 minutes; $29.95); Tying BWOs; Tying Caddis & Midges;
Tying Callibaetis & Green Drakes; Tying Nymphs & Wets;
Tying Terrestrials; Basic Fresh Water Streamer Tying (available
soon; 120 minutes; $29.95); Basic Salt Water Tying (available soon;
120 minutes; $29.95); Tying Gordons, Hendricksons, March Browns
& Pale Evening Duns (available soon); Tying PMDs, Red Quills,
Tricos and Paraleptophlebias (available soon); Techniques for Tying
Tiny Dry Flies (available soon).
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