Wing Pads on Nymphs
By A.K. BEST

A nymph is probably the first fly most of us learned to tie, because it is easy to learn, and incorporates several basic tying techniques. Generic nymphs, such as the Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear, require only three or four different materials, and no matter how poorly tied your instructor or fishing buddies may think they are, they'll catch fish.

I like to see moderately prominent wing pads on nymphs, simply because the naturals all have them. I always figure that as long as I'm starting on a bare hook, why not try to imitate the natural as closely as I can without taking all day to do it? Adding a wing pad is easy to do as long as you take a few precautions. I have seen a lot of nymphs whose wing pads were so skinny they could just as well have been omitted.

Here's how to avoid the skinny wing pad:

1) Dub the body well beyond the point where you'll tie in the wing pad (you'll usually use a segment from a goose secondary wing feather). Bring the tying thread back to the spot where you will tie in the quill segment. This will give you a broad platform upon which to place the segment. Many tiers will dub the body up to the point where they will tie in the quill, tie the quill onto a bare hook shank, then continue dubbing a nice, fat thorax. When they pull the quill segment forward to form the wing case, it will be no wider than the base onto which it was tied. That last is a rule, no matter what size nymph you're tying.

2) Select a secondary wing quill for the wing pad that is quite wide (the wider the better. The long, pointy feathers will have wide individual fibers, similar to a biot, and as you tie a segment from it on a hook, the segment will tend to split open).

3) Spray the entire quill with some kind of clear spray adhesive, such as Krylon Workable Fixatif. Spray both sides until the feather appears quite wet. When it's dry the spray will keep the fibers from separating as you tie the quill on and pull it forward.

4) Clip a segment from the feather (width equal to the hook gap), and tie in the base, with the tip to the rear of the fly. Dub a fat thorax, pull the quill segment forward and tie it down firmly. Clip off the tip, whip-finish and apply head cement (to both the head and the wing case).

That’s it.—A.K.

Check out A.K.’s fly-tying videos, based on his popular books (unless noted, all times are 60 minutes; prices $19.95): Tying Dry Flies (120 minutes; $29.95); Tying BWOs; Tying Caddis & Midges; Tying Callibaetis & Green Drakes; Tying Nymphs & Wets; Tying Terrestrials; Basic Fresh Water Streamer Tying (available soon; 120 minutes; $29.95); Basic Salt Water Tying (available soon; 120 minutes; $29.95); Tying Gordons, Hendricksons, March Browns & Pale Evening Duns (available soon); Tying PMDs, Red Quills, Tricos and Paraleptophlebias (available soon); Techniques for Tying Tiny Dry Flies (available soon).