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How To Build A Rod Wrapping Jig
Special thanks to Greg Pennell
for the article and diagrams for this wrapper.
After browsing through several rod building catalogs and
websites, I figured out what I wanted in a rod wrapper
and decided to build my own. I selected poplar hardwood
from my local Lowe’s Home Improvement Store, but you can
use pine, maple, oak, or whatever you prefer. Total cost
for my wood and the necessary hardware was a little over
$15.00. If you’ve checked the prices for simple rod
wrappers in some supply catalogs, you’ll see a
significant savings.
Materials List:
1”x3”x24” hardwood (2 pieces)
1”x2”x24” hardwood (1 piece)
1”x4”x36” hardwood (1 piece)
1/4”x2” bolts, with washers and wing nuts
1/4”x3” bolts, washers, and self locking nuts
1 1/4” drywall screws
Wood glue
Felt
Stain and finish of choice
Step 1, The Base
From the 1x2, cut three pieces 5 1/4” long. Put one
aside for later. take the two remaining pieces, and
glue/screw them to the bottom of the two 1x3 pieces,
leaving about a 5/16” gap between the two 1x3’s. Be sure
to pre-drill and countersink all screw holes to keep
from splitting the wood. Set this aside to allow the
glue to dry.
(Photo 1)
Step 2, The Rod Rests
From the 1x4, cut three pieces 6” long, and two pieces
4” long. Set one of the 6” pieces aside for later. Take
the two remaining 6” pieces and clamp them together.
Mark and cut a “V” notch 1 1/2” deep in one end. Then
Glue/screw the uprights (6” pieces) to the 4” pieces.
Drill a 5/16” hole in the center of each of the 4”
bases.
(Photo 2)
Step 3, Thread Tensioner
Now, take the two pieces you set aside earlier. Drill
two 1/4” holes in the piece of 1x2, far enough apart so
two spools of wrapping thread won’t hit each other. On
mine, they are 2” apart. Glue/screw the 1x2 to one edge
of the piece of 1x4. Drill a 5/16” hole in the center of
the 1x4, about 2” from the edge.
Thread the 3” bolts through the two holes in the
upright, and secure them with a nut. These will hold
your spools of wrapping thread. Tension on mine is
supplied by two small pieces of surgical tubing (small
springs will also work) I had to use the self-locking
nuts because the wing nuts I tried kept un-screwing
themselves as the spools turned.
Washers cut from a thin piece of plastic, and placed on
both ends of the thread spools help the thread spools to
turn smoothly. I added a small eye screw to the base to
feed the thread from the bottom of the rod blank.
(Photo 3)
Step 4, Finishing/Assembly
Sand lightly (if you feel ambitious, you can use a
router on all the edges), stain, and apply a coat of you
finish of choice. I just sprayed mine with a couple of
light coats of matte polyurethane. Glue felt (or the
fuzzy half of Velcro) to the “V” notches in the rod
rests. I put some on the base to keep from scratching
the kitchen table, too.
Then use the 2” bolts, washers, and wing nuts to connect
the rod rests and thread tensioner to the base. The slot
you built into the base is for your adjustments of these
three pieces.
You should have enough excess wood left to make a
separate rod rest (for longer sections or one piece
rods). I’m going to make an extra upright for mine, and
attach a drying motor, for finishing.
(Photo 4)
Simple Rod Jig ..not nearly as
nice as the one above
Rod Building jig
Use 1/2 inch plywood or lumber to make your jig.
Distance between V's should be about 24 inches. Height
to bottom of V's should be 6 to 10 inches above middle
board. Place felt in V's so rod blank does not get
scuffed.
This is a simple diagram of a rod building jig. Fancy
jigs can be made with rollers and a power motor to spin
the rod while tying. They are also available for
$100-200 commercially.
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